Fixtures are the parts of the plumbing you touch every day, so they wear out first. A faucet stem that will not budge, a toilet that runs all night, a garbage disposal that hums and stops: most of these are repairs, and a good repair keeps a quality fixture working for years. When the body of the fixture is cracked or corroded, or parts are no longer made for it, replacement makes more sense.
New fixtures and supply lines also go in during kitchen and bath remodels, from the shutoff valves behind the wall to the faucet on the counter. Water filters are part of the installation work too.
| Problem | Likely cause | Repair or replace |
|---|---|---|
| Faucet drips from the spout | A worn cartridge, washer or valve seat | Repair: replace the cartridge or washer |
| Handle is stiff or will not turn | A seized stem from mineral buildup | Repair: loosen or replace the stem |
| Toilet runs between flushes | A worn flapper or fill valve | Repair: replace the flapper or fill valve |
| Toilet rocks or leaks at the base | A failed wax seal or a broken flange | Repair: reset on a new seal; replace the flange if cracked |
| Disposal hums but will not turn | A jammed grinding plate or a worn motor | Repair if jammed; replace if the motor is gone |
| Shutoff valve will not close | An old multi-turn valve seized with scale | Replace with a quarter-turn valve |
| Weak flow from one faucet | A clogged aerator or cartridge | Repair: clean or replace the aerator or cartridge |
Hard Water and California’s Efficiency Rules
San Diego County’s hard water leaves white scale on faucets and showerheads and inside cartridges and aerators, which is why stiff handles and weak streams are so common here. Any new fixture also has to meet California’s water-efficiency standards: toilets use no more than 1.28 gallons a flush, bathroom faucets are limited to 1.2 gallons a minute, and showerheads to 1.8. Fixtures sold in the state are built to those numbers, but an older one brought from elsewhere may not be.
Before Replacing a Fixture
- Measure the rough-in: for a toilet, the distance from the wall to the center of the bolts at its base; for a faucet, the number of holes and their spacing.
- Check the shutoff valves under the sink or behind the toilet. If they are stiff or crusted, plan to replace them at the same time.
- Choose a model that fits the existing connections and meets California’s efficiency rules.
- Clear out the cabinet under the sink or the space around the toilet before the visit.
Running Toilets and Weak Faucets
Why does my toilet keep running, and why is the water pressure low at one faucet?
A running toilet is almost always the flapper at the bottom of the tank or the fill valve that refills it. A flapper hardens with age and stops sealing, so water trickles into the bowl and the tank refills on its own. It wastes more water than any dripping faucet and is a quick part swap.
Low pressure at a single faucet points to that faucet: the aerator or the cartridge is packed with scale. Low pressure everywhere in the house is a different problem, a failing pressure regulator, a partly closed main valve or old galvanized pipe narrowed by rust.
Bringing Your Own Fixture
Can I buy my own faucet or toilet and have it installed?
Many homeowners pick their own fixtures, especially for a remodel. Mention it when you call so the estimate covers the right work, and before you buy, check that it fits what is already there: the number of holes in the sink or counter for a faucet, the rough-in distance for a toilet, and the connections for a disposal. A fixture sold for California should already meet the state’s water-efficiency rules.
If a part arrives damaged or a piece is missing, it is better to find out before the old fixture comes out, so open the box and check it when it arrives.
Fix the Drip, the Run or the Stuck Handle
Send the request form or call, and get an estimate for the repair or the new fixture before any work starts.